Sinfully good Italian

By Jeff Kershaw
The Flat Hat

Carmela's, like many restaurants in Williamsburg, cannot be described as anything but uninspired on the outside; the exterior is lined with gray plastic siding and, although the sides are lined with many windows, the shades are invariably drawn, lending the place an air of mystery. What could be on the inside?

Venture forth and you will be impressed with what you find: there are specials scribbled on a large blackboard near the door, walls and booths lined with rich wood and different paintings and art prints. The entire interior exudes a pleasant aura. The lighting is kept fairly low (this explains the drawn shades) and a small oil lamp lights each table. Plastic tablecloths take away from the visual experience somewhat, although the pattern is appropriate.

The servers are smartly dressed, extremely accommodating and attentive. The manager will also make a point of stopping by your table after the food has been served to make sure the happiness level isn't sagging. Rather than feeling intrusive, these visits add to the sense of being provided with the utmost in service.

Carmela's has a very nice selection of wine and beers. Most of the vino is from California, but many Italian varieties are also available, as well as several from France and Australia. The House wines, while not excellent, are a good value.

When the time comes for antipasti, try the bruschetta; it's perfect. The bread is delicately sprinkled with garlic, oregano and basil, covered with just the right amount of olive oil (with more towards the center), and then heaped with fresh chunks of tomato and cheese. The textures, the flavors and the aromas are all ideal. For those who enjoy generous amounts of olive oil, there's a bottle sitting at the end of every table.

Carmela's extensive menu can make the choice of an entree difficult. A noteworthy feature is their pasta section; you select the type of pasta you want, the sauce (there's more than a dozen choices) and any extras you desire, such as mushrooms, asparagus, spinach and the like. The result is pasta that is perfectly suited to your taste, and the infinite variations that can be created allow you to experiment with dishes you may not have considered before. The cheese ravioli is especially good. It's plump, soft and stuffed with ricotta, romano, mozzarella and provolone cheeses.

The other entrees are excellent as well. If you enjoy chicken parmesan, you should definitely make a point of ordering it here. Two large pieces of crispy, delicate chicken are paired with an amazing amount of steaming spaghetti. All of the portions at Carmela's are huge. Unless you haven't eaten for two days, it will be a challenge to finish.

The sauces used at Carmela's are interesting. For those accustomed to eating at Olive Garden or Sal's by Victor, Carmela's provides a welcome change, although they could still use some tweaking.

This is great Italian food, among the best you can find in the area. The prices are a little steep for college students, but if you feel like splurging, Carmela's provides a great environment for a date or other special occasion.

Carmela's
207 Bypass Road; (757) 253-6544

Carmela's - ****

Related Links: Can't find Carmela's? Here's a map. Here is a list of other Italian restaurants, with telephone numbers and addresses, in the Williamsburg area. If you feel like eating in tonight, we found a list of Italian recipes.